HuntFishQuest.com

Hey guys,
Just joined the site not too long ago. I'm a wildlife biologist for Quail Forever. (NOT Quail Unlimited, just so were clear )I administer the wildlife related CRP programs and a few others for 10 counties of West TN, focusing on quail habitat and management. I also help any other landowners who are in need of help and advice for their wildlife projects.

I don't log on very often, but am willing to answer any questions you have about quail, habitat management and anything else that you're curious about! Anything from food plots to herbicide to native grass! I'm here!

My email is ccox@quailforever.org

Thanks!

Thanks!! Glad to have you on board!!

Would really love to have a hunt able population agin!

Glad to have you and your expertise on the site BD, welcome aboard!

Glad to have you. Welcome.

Can you tell me what all is planted around my field edges in Henderson Co? We're in 10th year I think.

BirdDog525 wrote:I don't log on very often, but am willing to answer any questions you have about quail, habitat management and anything else that you're curious about! Anything from food plots to herbicide to native grass! I'm here!

I realize this isn't in the normal wheel-house of a quail biologist, but do you know any foresters that can tell me how to kill mature trees with hack-and-squirt? I swear, I've used just about every herbicide known to Man, and I still can't get a sure kill on mature trees. I've even hack-and-squirted pure, undiluted glysophate and still only get about a 40% kill rate on mature trees.

Last recommendation I got was a high concentration on Imazapyr alone, which I haven't tried yet. But I have tried mixtures of diluted Imazapyr and Garlon, and that didn't work.

Hey BSK, So sorry I'm just now seeing this post! Yea glyphosate don't do anything to trees but make them mad!
I was going to recommend Imazapyr as well. But make sure you get the 53% instead of the 27% active ingredient. It makes a huge difference. And co-op will try to sell you the weaker at the same price too!
Also, what time of year are you trying to hack and squirt? The best time of year to kill any woody species is August-November, the time trees are starting to take their energy to the roots for dormancy. And when you hack and squirt at that time, the tree will take the chemical down to the root and get a kill. Make multiple hacks as much as you can too. Good luck. Let me know how it goes!

BirdDog525,

I'm hack-and-squirting mainly in August and September. I tried an Imazapyr-Garlon mixture, and it didn't do much. I've heard since that perhaps that wasn't a great mixture as the two chemicals may be working against each other. This year I'm going to try just a high concentration of Imazapyr alone and see if that does the trick. So far, I'm having about zero success killing mature beeches, elms and hickories.

welcome

BSK wrote:BirdDog525,

I'm hack-and-squirting mainly in August and September. I tried an Imazapyr-Garlon mixture, and it didn't do much. I've heard since that perhaps that wasn't a great mixture as the two chemicals may be working against each other. This year I'm going to try just a high concentration of Imazapyr alone and see if that does the trick. So far, I'm having about zero success killing mature beeches, elms and hickories.

Yea go ahead and just try the straight Imazapyr and see what it does. Persistance is key when trying to kill stuff like that. And it may actually take a while for it to look dead, since they're so big and mature.

If that dosent seem to work try mixing Metsulfuron methyl with Imazapyr. Trade name for that is Escort or Cimarron

BirdDog525 wrote:If that dosent seem to work try mixing Metsulfuron methyl with Imazapyr. Trade name for that is Escort or Cimarron

Fascinating advice. I may try some areas with Imazapyr alone and some with the mixture of Imazapyr and Escort to see if I get any better results with the mix.

Some of my hack-and-squirt areas are 3+ years old, and I'll bet 2/3 of the mature trees are still doing fine, even though I hacked the snot out of them.

Quick question from a chemically ignorant guy...why not deep girdling? Is this not quick enough? I would think if chemical application requires multiple visits, a deep girdle, though more time consuming inititially, would be more efficient.

Western Chill wrote:Quick question from a chemically ignorant guy...why not deep girdling? Is this not quick enough? I would think if chemical application requires multiple visits, a deep girdle, though more time consuming inititially, would be more efficient.

Surprisingly, I've experienced very poor results double-girdling with a chain-saw. Even when I cut very deep. Plus, the amount of effort is very high compared to hack-and-squirt. And when you're trying to kill hundreds of trees...

happy for you

BirdDog525 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2015 10:01 pm Hey guys,
Just joined the site not too long ago. I'm a wildlife biologist for Quail Forever. (NOT Quail Unlimited, just so were clear )I administer the wildlife related CRP programs and a few others for 10 counties of West TN, focusing on quail habitat and management. I also help any other landowners who are in need of help and advice for their wildlife projects.

I don't log on very often, but am willing to answer any questions you have about quail, habitat management and anything else that you're curious about! Anything from food plots to herbicide to native grass! I'm here!

My email is ccox@quailforever.org

Thanks!

Hey Birdog525. Will a turkey hen let a jake breed her??